Rain Can't Dampen Bordeaux Farmers Fair

The rain that nourishes the plants all year poured all weekend, defying efforts to sell the produce it so carefully nurtures the rest of the year.

However, the Bordeaux farmers are a hardy lot, and the cultural highlight of their year blazed along – a celebration of life and community, a time to celebrate the joys of the year’s labors.
Though they didn’t come in the throngs of sunnier years, still a healthy number of local folks didn’t let the raindrops stand in the way of enjoying the bounty awaiting them at the 13th Annual Bordeaux Farmers Rastafari Agricultural and Cultural Food Fair, a festival for the senses.

This year’s theme is “13 Years and You Can Still Depend, Support the Farmers in 2010.” During the fair’s opening ceremonies Saturday, Paget "Spell" Roacher, who has farmed St. Thomas for more than 20 years, was honored as farmer of the year.

The energizing sounds of reggae drums and voices, the produce, the fragrant scents of just-picked basil, sage and thyme, and the aromas from the Ital dishes, breaded cauliflower, baked tofu, seasoned rice, plantains, and steaming pots of pumpkin soup, filled the damp air.

Just about anything to eat, drink or wear was available in one form or another. Peanut punch, guava nectar, fresh juices from Diane’s raw food stand, along with an abundance African-inspired art, jewelry, clothing, handmade candles, incense and essential oils and homemade brooms.

Some folks scurried under the roof of the children’s activity center to enjoy a dry dish of curried tofu or a steaming cup of soup.

Others, like veteran fairgoer and environmentalist Mario Francis, braved it out.

"I have to get my pumpkin soup, my stomach tells me this," said Francis. "The rain is good for us."

Two Jackie Davises – "We’re both Jackie Davis," they explained – hovered under a big umbrella, said they came to get dinner.

"This tea bush looks like a good start," said one Davis. "We don’t want to cook tonight."

Collard greens, okra, eggplant, cucumber, papaya, pumpkin and tamarind, spinach and lettuces abounded in the stands. Fair stalwart Benita Samuel proudly displayed collard greens, leeks, and the greenest, freshest lettuce this side of heaven.

Samuel is a busy lady every day – mother, teacher, farmer – and especially at the fair. Along with her husband, Lucien "Jambie" Samuel, she is an original member of the collective We Grow Food, which sponsors the celebration. It was conceived as a means of introducing Bordeaux, showing the rest of the island what can be grown on some of the most difficult land to farm in the Virgin Islands.

With the support of groups like GrowVI, the last year has seen an increase in the farmers’ exposure. Along with monthly markets and the traditional Saturday morning stands at Market Square, many of the farmers haul their produce to the Yacht Haven Grande farmers market the first and third Sundays of the month, a venue more readily accessible for many.

Still, there’s nothing quite like the fair. That atmosphere cannot be duplicated; the music, the smells, the camaraderie, the strong community feeling.

This year saw a new venture, Mama Jo’s Bush Tea, a brightly decorated booth in reds and greens, with a big vat of iced Lemon Bush tea, and free samples. Along with the tea, which comes in little bags, are lemon salves and creams. The tea is bracing, delicious, although hot tea might have been more in order this weekend.

Farmer Charles Leonard, on the other hand, lamented that the weather this year put a dent in the traditional farm tours. A born optimist, on Saturday he said, "I hope to be able to do one on Sunday afternoon."

Along with no tours, Leonard, also a beekeeper, couldn’t bring any on his Sweetman Honey.

"The rains have been too heavy," he said. "They make the bees too aggressive." Then, glancing at an enormous mound of bright green avocados, Leonard smiled. "Just look at them," he said, "they don’t stop dropping."

St. Croix farmer Theresa Davis sat under a tarp surrounded by bushels of squash, enormous carrots, cabbages, and the biggest calabash around.

"I think it’s over 20 pounds," said Davis.

Along with the produce, she dispensed homemade fruit tarts, guava, mango, and sweetbreads, moving one customer to muse, "I wonder if I should move to St. Croix."